Sustainable Features of Ancient Buddhist Monk Clothing

Buddhism, a profound spiritual tradition, has its origins in India more than 2,500 years ago. Founded by Siddhartha Gautama, also known as the Lord Buddha, this philosophy emerged as a response to the societal and spiritual concerns of its time. It centres on the Four Noble Truths, which elucidate the existence of suffering and the Eightfold Path as the means to transcend it. Over the centuries, Buddhism expanded across Asia, giving rise to diverse schools and interpretations such as Theravada, Mahayana, and Vajrayana, each with its distinctive practices and beliefs. In the present day, Buddhism remains a globally practiced and revered religion that encourages mindfulness, compassion, and inner serenity. Buddhism encourages minimalism through teachings about letting go of attachments and living simply. Buddhists aim to avoid greed and craving by reducing consumption and focusing on necessities. Living with fewer possessions and resources uses less energy and materials, reducing waste and the human impact on the environment. Upon closer examination, numerous sustainable practices within this culture can provide valuable concepts for modern-day living.

The Buddhist way of life is inherently environmentally conscious and characterized by its simplicity. It imparts essential knowledge to monks, teaching them to craft their own robes. When closely monitoring this process, there are a substantial number of sustainability features in this robe manufacturing process. Below are some insights about those concepts.

The Concept of Recycling and Upcycling

In ancient India, the bodies of deceased individuals were traditionally wrapped in white fabric and placed on burial grounds. Sometimes, they were buried with a white fabric shroud. Even in current Theravada Buddhist culture, this practice continues with the offering of a white fabric known as “pansakula wastra” or “mathaka wastra” to the monks who conducts funeral rituals. These white fabrics serve as the primary source for crafting the robes of Buddhist monks, in accordance with the teachings of Lord Buddha. Monks would also utilize unowned and priceless fabric remnants from various sources such as garbage dumps as per the Lord Buddha’s guidance. These fabric pieces were collected and repurposed as materials for making robes. To create a complete robe, thousands of such fabric segments were stitched together, forming what is known as a “dahaskada.” Robes made from five pieces of fabric were called “paskada,” while those from a hundred pieces were referred to as “siyaskada.” This is the process through which Buddhist teachings guide to make robes. Once the robe is damaged, Buddhist monks eventually repurpose them as bed sheets, mats, and rugs, and ultimately mix them with clay to construct walls of small rooms. These rooms which is named as “Aranya Kuti” were used by monks for their spiritual activities such as meditation.

This concept aligns with modern recycling and upcycling practices. Used garments were recycled and repurposed to create new, fresh-looking attire. Monks have also adopted the idea of repurposing fabrics for their robes. Today, in Thailand, some monks utilize recycled plastic bottles to create robes, carrying forward the same sustainable philosophy. This demonstrates how Buddhist culture embraced sustainable concepts over 2,500 years ago and how we can apply them to contemporary sustainable initiatives.

Natural Dyeing

Then monks start the coloration process. The fabric made from leftovers was dyed using natural dye extracted from parts of the plants in the forest such as Leaves, roots and branches., This coloration process is known as “siwuru pandu peweema”. The term “pandu” refers to plant pieces used as natural dye stuff. Various parts of the plants, such as Mahogany, Kubuk, Kohomba, and Jackfruit were used in this process. Monks collected these parts from the forest, cut them into smal pieces, and utilized them as dye stuff. The “Vinaya Pitakaya – Cheewara Kandaya,” the disciplinary code for monks and the subsection regarding robes, specifies which plants can and cannot be used, along with the designated colours for the robes. The Catechu extracted from these plants was used as a durable colourant. Additionally, the aroma of these natural colourants protected the monks from mosquitoes and other creatures, as they often resided in forests or remote areas.

Today, there is a growing trend in natural dyeing, with many manufacturers, such as Achroma, creating their own natural dye materials for fabric mills. Dye machine suppliers, like Tonello, produce specialized machines for extracting natural colourants from plants and directly incorporating them into dyeing processes. This modern natural dyeing concept aligns with Lord Buddha’s teachings to his monks 2,500 years ago.

Dyeing with Low Liquor Ratios and Renewable Energy

After preparing the colourants, monks used a pot of water, added the natural colourants, and heated it with renewable energy sources like firewood. The liquor ratio (the amount of water used to dye 1 kg of fabric) is remarkably low, typically between 1:5 and 1:10. Unlike today’s multi-cycle dyeing processes involving dyeing, soaping, fixing, softening, and more, this traditional method involves just one dyeing cycle. The water usage in this process is approximately 90% lower. The simplified process is eco-friendly, using very little water, and the colour durability of natural dyes is excellent.

Sustainable development activists now commonly embrace these concepts, focusing on renewable energy, low emissions, and reduced water usage. Dyeing plants are making efforts to align their processes with these principles. However, Buddhism’s minimalist lifestyle has long embodied these practices, showcasing them with their simple way of life. Despite the benefits of these concepts, we often struggle to adopt them into our complex modern lifestyles and businesses.

Minimalistic Wardrobe Concept

Buddhism prescribes eight essential items for monks, including “pata siwura,” “depata siwura,” “andanaya,” and a belt, which respectively means a one-ply robe, a two-ply robe, an undergarment that looks like a sarong, and a belt made from similar fabric. Needle and thread are included for robe repairs. These minimal clothing items are all that monks need to sustain their lives.

Today, the concept of minimalism and sustainable fashion has gained popularity, with people owning fewer clothes compared to extensive wardrobes filled with various fashion items. Reducing consumption is crucial for a sustainable lifestyle, conserving natural resources, and benefiting future generations.

Conclusion

While the lives of monks today may not be as simple as described, their teachings and practices are still available in some areas/countries. Some monks in remote areas and forests still adhere to these methods and dedicate their lives to meditation. This study aimed to explore whether current sustainable concepts align with Buddhist culture, and it is clear that these concepts are in harmony with Buddhist principles. When studying Buddhism, it is evident that environmentally friendly and minimalist approaches are deeply ingrained, and we all have a responsibility to incorporate these concepts into our lives.

Author:
Dileepa Fernando
MBA, BSC (Industrial Statistics),
Diploma in Textile Coloration & Finishing, Lean Yellow Belt